Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Describes physical and statistical aspects of waves for graduates, researchers and engineers.

Leo H. Holthuijsen (Author)

9780521129954, Cambridge University Press

Paperback, published 4 February 2010

404 pages
24.4 x 17 x 2.1 cm, 0.64 kg

Review of the hardback: ' … an excellent source of information about wind-generated, ocean-surface gravity waves, especially as used in state of the art numerical wave models, in particular those that simulate waves in shallow coastal waters, such as SWAN. The book is nicely illustrated, well written, contains many references, and will be of interest to scientists and engineers.' Oceanography

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

1. Introduction
2. Observation techniques
3. Description of ocean waves
4. Statistics
5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)
6. Waves in oceanic waters
7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters)
8. Waves in coastal waters
9. The SWAN wave model
Appendices
References
Index.

Subject Areas: Marine engineering [TTS], Mechanics of fluids [TGMF], Oceanography [seas RBKC], Fluid mechanics [PHDF]