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    Japanese Foodways, Past and Present

    Eric C. Rath (Edited by), Stephanie Assmann (Edited by), Stephanie Assmann (Contributions by), Gary S ka Cadwallader (Contributions by), Katarzyna J. Cwiertka (Contributions by), Satomi Fukutomi (Contributions by), Shoko Higashiyotsuyanagi (Contributions by), Joseph R Justice (Contributions by), Michael Kinski (Contributions by), Barak Kushner (Contributions by), Bridget Love (Contributions by), Joji Nozawa (Contributions by), Tomoko Onabe (Contributions by), Eric C. Rath (Contributions by), Akira Shimizu (Contributions by), George Solt (Contributions by), David E Wells (Contributions by), Miho Yasuhara (Contributions by)

    9780252035630

    Hardback, published 7 October 2010

    304 pages, 13 black and white photographs, 3 tables
    23.5 x 15.6 x 2.3 cm, 0.567 kg

    "An excellent resource. . . . An exciting addition to a growing collection of English-language literature on the foodways of Japan."--Journal of Folklore Research
    "Significantly advances our knowledge of the history of Japanese food."--Gastronomica
     
    "This volume makes an important contribution to a growing field of study."--Monumenta Nipponica
    "Required reading for anyone interested in Japanese history, food, and foodways. I couldn't put this book down!"--Samuel Hideo Yamashita, author of Leaves from an Autumn of Emergencies: Selections from the Wartime Diaries of Ordinary Japanese
    "A pathbreaking volume on Japanese culinary history with great depth and scope."--Merry Isaacs White, author of Perfectly Japanese: Making Families in an Era of Upheaval "Provides an eye-opening view of the influence that other countries had on Japanese food culture, and how Japan was never an island unto itself."--Choice "A welcome addition to the growing body of scholarly literature on Japanese food and foodways."--Southeast Review of Asian Studies

    Spanning nearly six hundred years of Japanese food culture, Japanese Foodways, Past and Present considers the production, consumption, and circulation of Japanese foods from the mid-fifteenth century to the present day in contexts that are political, economic, cultural, social, and religious. Diverse contributors--including anthropologists, historians, sociologists, a tea master, and a chef--address a range of issues such as medieval banquet cuisine, the tea ceremony, table manners, cookbooks in modern times, food during the U.S. occupation period, eating and dining out during wartimes, the role of heirloom vegetables in the revitalization of rural areas, children's lunches, and the gentrification of blue-collar foods.
     
    Framed by two reoccurring themes--food in relation to place and food in relation to status--the collection considers the complicated relationships between the globalization of foodways and the integrity of national identity through eating habits. Focusing on the consumption of Western foods, heirloom foods, once-taboo foods, and contemporary Japanese cuisines, Japanese Foodways, Past and Present shows how Japanese concerns for and consumption of food has relevance and resonance with other foodways around the world.
     
    Contributors are Stephanie Assmann, Gary Soka Cadwallader, Katarzyna Cwiertka, Satomi Fukutomi, Shoko Higashiyotsuyanagi, Joseph R. Justice, Michael Kinski, Barak Kushner, Bridget Love, Joji Nozawa, Tomoko Onabe, Eric C. Rath, Akira Shimizu, George Solt, David E. Wells, and Miho Yasuhara.

    LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS   vii
    ACKNOWLEDGMENTS   ix
    INTRODUCTION   1
    Eric C. Rath and Stephanie Assmann

    PART 1   Early Modern Japan
    1 Honzen Dining: The Poetry of Formal Meals in Late Medieval and Early Modern Japan   19
    ERIC C. RATH
    2 "
    How to Eat the Ten Thousand Things"
    : Table Manners in the Edo Period   42
    MICHAEL KINSKI
    3. "
    Stones for the Belly"
    : Kaiseki Cuisine for Tea during the Early Edo Period   68
    GARY SOKA CADWALLADER AND JOSEPH R. JUSTICE
    4 Meat-eating in the Kojimachi District of Edo   92
    AKIRA SHIMIZU
    5 Wine-drinking Culture in Seventeeth-century Japan: The Role of Dutch Merchants   108
    JOJI NOZAWA

    PART II   Modern Japan
    6  The History of Domestic Cookbooks in Modern Japan   129
    SHOKO HIGASHIYOTSU YANAGI
    7 Imperial Cuisines in Taisho Foodways   145
    BARAK KUSHNER
    8 Beyond HUnger: Grocery Shopping, Cooking, and Eating in 1940s Japan   166
    KATARZYNA CWIERTKA AND MIHO YASUHARA
    9 Ramen and U.S. Occupation Policy   186
    GEORGE SOLT
    10 Bento: Boxed Love, Eaten by the Eye   201
    TOMOKO ONABE

    PART III Contemporary Japan
    11 Mountain Vegetables and the Politics of Local Flavor in Japan   221
    BRIDGET LOVE
    12 Reinventing Culinary Heritage in Northern Japan: Slow Food and Traditional Vegetables   243
    STEPHANIE ASSMANN
    13 Ramen Connoisseurs: Class, Gender, and the Internet   257
    SATOMI FUKUTOMI
    14 Irretrievably in Love with Japanese Cuisine   275
    DAVID E. WELLS

    CONTRIBUTORS   285
    INDEX   289

    List of Illustrations

    1 A three-tray honezen meal from Ryori kondateshu   22
    2 Snipe in (eggplant) jars from Shichi no zen jukyu kon no maki   32
    3 A supervisory housewife and a servant from Shiroto ryori nenju sozai no shikata zen   135
    4 An old housewife and two servants from Sozai ryori no okeiko   137
    5 A young housewife in a kitchen from Katei yoshoku ryoriho   139
    6 A housewife and maid discussing kitchen tasks from Renovating Kitchens   151
    7 Members of a neighborhood farm group preparing steamed buns   222
    8 Local female farmers work part-time at company headquarters   230
    9 A female farmers' group from Yuda's Makino district   232
    10 The three basic types of Japanese knives   276
    11 Cutting a carrot into a plum blossom   277
    12 Peeling daikon   278
    13 Tempura   283
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